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Making of Liner Lock Folding Knife part 2

https://www.damascus1.com/product-category/handmade-damascus-steel-hunting-knife/
Handmade Damascus Folding Knives
Step 3: What you need

Tools:
-Drill + Drill guide / Drill Press
-Good bit (I used 1/8 "and # 53)
-Ball ball
-Files (round and flat)
-Sierra for metals (with blades to cut metal.I use Lansky)
-Expo bookmark
-Sharpie

Materials of
-Blade Steel (1084 can be heat treated with fire.I went to D2 and 154CM, and I'm using Texas Knifemakers to heat treat) (I used a thickness of 1/8 ")
-Titanium (about 0.060 "thick, for blocking the lining)
-Manijas (G10 / Micarta suggested)
- Non-contact bolts (round metal rods) (for a stop pin / pivot, or prefabricated bolts and stop pins can be used) (I used 1/8 ")
-Material of spacer (the thickness should be equal to the thickness of the blade + washers)
-Detent Ball (I use 1/16 "diameter)
-2 phosphor bronze washers (your choice of thickness, I use 1/32 "I think.)

All materials can be purchased at USAknifemakers.com. Other sites include Texasknife.com, knifekits.com, alphaknifesupply.com and more.

Step 4: Enough!



Print the design on pieces of paper, stick the paper super to your metal and titanium, and then cut out the design. I use a hacksaw with lansky blades. Just somehow, get the cut design. Nothing too delicate here. Be sure to leave extra space around the lock and stop the areas of the pins on the blade. Then, wherever the blade touches the handle (the two stop pins open and close, and the lock), leave a little extra space, for example, 1 or 2 mm.

Use a file to finish the page. At this point, the blade of the blade, the edge, must be perfectly finished. The parts of the blade that will not be displayed when the blade is opened can be left a little finished. Remember, it is important to leave space around the contact points of the stop pin and the blocking area!

Also, cut the slabs of the handle at this point. Make them more or less precise. The most important part is to have both holes.


Step 5: Drill the pivot and stop holes



The perforation must be precise. I use this drill guide, but a drill press would be much better. If you are going to try to do it with only one drill, try to keep it as close as possible to the perpendicular, and when you are drilling holes through which the same pin would pass, use the holes as a guide for the next hole. to be drilled, that way all your holes can be at the same angle. It will not work well for the pivot, although it can be done. Start with a central punch and drill through the knife. I use 1/8 "pivots and stop pins, so I drill with a 1/8" bit. Simple. Do not drill the catch right now.

A good difference makes a big difference! My favorite is the Norseman Cobalt bits from USAknifemaker.com. This step seems very easy, but I had some of the biggest problems with this. Drill a hole perfectly placed perpendicular (let's say three times fast!) It was difficult for me. Like I said, a drill would be your best option.

Also, when drilling for the handles, it helps to make the piece of titanium first, and then use it as a template for the scales of the handles. When you do that, drill a hole and glue it with a pin to help align everything. Next, drill the next hole and then insert another pin.

Step 6: Archive the bevels



Basically, file the edge. It will file in a tilt, so that the shape of the knife is there. I use drawfiling. With the handle in your right hand, push the file towards the base or tip of the blade. In this way a perfectly flat grinding is ensured. Then turn the page and do the same.

A trick to find the center of your blade: paint the edge of the blade with a sharpener, and then take a drill of the same diameter as the thickness of your metal. Scrape a line on the edge by placing the blade and bit on a flat surface and bringing the blade toward you against the bit. In this way, the bit will mark a line just in the center of the blade. To check again, flip the page and do the same. There should only be one line, but if there are two, this means that there is a small difference between the size of the bit and the thickness of the blade. This is fine, I only know that the center is directly between these two lines.

File the sheet and leave about 1/16 "thick on the edge of your knife Tip: This is about the thickness of a dime.
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