Skip to main content

Making of Liner Lock Folding Knife

https://www.damascus1.com/product-category/handmade-damascus-steel-folding-pocket-knife/
Handmade Damascus Steel Folding Pocket Knife
Step 11: Adjust the seal



I had more problems with this than I should. The retainer is a small ball that keeps the blade closed. The retainer is mounted on the locking bar and, when the blade is opened, it is pushed to the side. Due to the washers, the blade does not "jam" in the retainer, as the washers provide additional space for the seal to come out. When the blade is closed, the retainer and liner lock a little inward, and the retention ball falls into a depression in the blade, thus keeping the knife closed.

First, determine where the stop ball should go. In the images, you can see that the most typical area for the retention ball is in the upper left part of the lock. However, other places will also work, and in fact, the Emerson knives drill a separate block for their stopping ball.

Take a small portion, which is only one hair smaller than the retention ball, and drill your hole in the liner closure. If you use a 1/16 "retainer ball, a # 53 drill bit is perfect.This done, take the ball, place it in the hole, then the phosphor washer and place it so that the ball is on the ball. Now, take a clamp or a hammer and gently press the ball in. Due to the small difference in size, the ball is now snapped into the liner lock.


The reason for the phosphor bronze washer is simple: as the lining closure has handles on both sides, the closure can not move outward or away from the center of the blade. If the retention ball was higher than the washer, then there would be no space for the blade to open and the blockage to move away. Therefore, the retention ball can only be as high as the phosphor washer.

Step 12: Make the retention hole





Now, assemble the knife, with the washers. First cover the inside of the sheet with a whiteboard marker. This will allow you to figure out where to drill the retention depression on the sheet. Open the blade a few times. The stop ball will push the exposure marker aside and create a small track where it goes.

Now, you want to drill the depression a little in front of the end of the retainer track. You want to drill the hole so that the ball is just in the hole, so you try to move more in the hole and, therefore, keep the blade pressing against the stop pin. If the hole is drilled so that the entire ball sits in the hole, there will be a small movement in the blade because the ball is not pressing. So you want to drill the hole so that the slope of the ball is in contact with the hole and exert pressure to keep the knife closed.

The depression hole does not need to be punctured too much, at least as deep as the height of the ball.

Step 13: Finish!



This is just a bunch of little things to finish the knife.

First, heat the blade. Usually, I do the 1084 by myself (another instructional), but for the more complicated heat treatments, I send it to Texas Knifemaker to treat it. At this time, I have 2 blades there.

Cut and shape the scales. They must have the same shape as your titanium piece. Drill the holes (with the pins to help alignment), shape and clean them!

Then, do the backspacer. This is just a small piece of material of the same thickness as your blade + 2 washers. Its purpose is simply to be a pillar at the end of the knife and make sure that the handles do not collapse. Drill holes to align with the flakes, and make sure you limit it enough so there is a free space for the blade when the blade is closed.

Using a ball hammer, place all the pins inward. Check the other instruction if you need help.

Finally, find a sharpening stone and sharpen the knife. It takes a while with hardened steel, but it's the last step!



Step 14: Enjoy !!!





Thank you for reading this tutorial and enjoy your new knife! I know that not many people will carry out a project of this kind because of the amount of time it takes. For me, I make knives as a hobby, and it takes me about 30 hours per knife. I find it rewarding, but each one to his own. Anyway, I hope to start publishing more instructables, all related to knives, since I am a knut (Knife + Nut). Probably going to come out with a stone wash soon!

As always, if you have any questions, just comment on the instructions.
Labels:

Comments

  1. Sarah JamesMay 1, 2019 at 4:15 AM

    cheap knives have a million uses and is one of the essential tools to be used in our everyday tasks and that is why people look for cool cheap knives.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Making of Liner Lock Folding Knife part 4

Custom Damascus Folding knives Step 8: Cut the lock!  It sounds simple huh? Essentially, you need to cut an L shape into the titanium. How you do it depends on you. You can drill a hole and use a jeweler's saw, or use a cut-off disk or band saw. In my case, I had to use a hacksaw. In order to give space to the blade of the hacksaw, I made a series of holes side by side and then opened it with a file. That gave me the authorization for the saw blade. Before starting, gather the knife and open the blade. Mark where the spike of the leaf is. You want to cut the locking bar with an overlap of about 1 mm with the blade. If there is no overlap, the lock will open too far without the possibility of adjustment, and the blade will be ruined. Do not forget to take into account the thickness of the saw! Begin by cutting the long line, parallel to the open sheet. Then cut perpendicular to the open blade. Now, with the locking bar released, bend the locking bar outward securing the back of ...
Post a Comment
Read more

Making Liner Lock Folding Knife part 3

Handmade Damascus Steel Folding Pocket Knife Step 7: Fitting the stop pin Now you must have the handles, roughly (or finished, it does not really matter), with at least two holes, the hole of the stop pin and the pivot hole. The blade must be made, except for additional metal behind the two contact points of the stop pin, and behind where the lock could touch the knife. Apart from that, the sheet should look good. It's time to fit. For these next steps, please take your time. Being too hasty would ruin the knife at this point. Essentially, what is going to happen is trial and error. In general, I have a certain pattern depending on the amount of steel I need to remove. File 5 times, check. File 5 more times, check. Using a hacksaw, cut the pivot and the stop pins. You want the length to be equal to the thickness of your knife in general, plus at least 1/4. "I usually leave about 1/2", just to make it easier to remove the pins. The adjustment will be very tight at this...
Post a Comment
Read more